KHOKI Spring/Summer 2027: Back on the Runway After a Year and a Half with “by R”

On September 4, KHOKI — the Tokyo brand run by an anonymous design team — staged its first runway show in roughly a year and a half at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2027 S/S, presented through Rakuten’s “by R” support project.

The venue was Warehouse TERRADA’s G1 space in Tennozu, where raw concrete was dressed with a red bird sculpture, oversized clock faces, and shelves casually lined with antiques and toys — as if the audience had been invited into a room inside someone’s memory.

The Primal Scene of “Design” — A Windowsill as Scenography

“When did I first experience ‘design’?” The show notes begin with that question. Tracing the feeling back leads to the landscape of a childhood home, where antiques, toys, and seemingly insignificant objects gathered from distant travels sat side by side on the windowsill, without hierarchy or distinction — an arrangement the designer imitated as a child, collecting, arranging, and combining whatever was within reach. There were no clear rules and no predetermined meaning; and yet an order existed, one that belonged only to its maker, with small surprises hidden in unexpected places.

This season translated that windowsill directly into both clothes and show-making. The scenography was the remembered room; the 25 looks that walked through it were the objects arranged upon it. A red zip-up vest peering out from under an oversized black jacket — from the very first exit, that “order known only to its maker” was already in the air.

A Grammar of Collecting — Patchwork, Lace, and Leather

The heart of KHOKI’s making resembles the practiced eye of a flea-market hunter: fragments of different eras and origins are gathered, arranged, and combined. A brown patchwork-knit catsuit pieced from a jumble of patterns; a crocheted tank top; a leather waist wrap cinched over a geometric-print skirt. A gray pinstripe oversized suit came styled with lace-knit tights, letting polished tailoring and handcraft collide — and coexist — within a single look.

The brand’s stated instinct for intertwining East and West, past and present, played out as a dialogue of materials: vintage-looking leather vests and blousons, white lace shirting, distressed denim, a color-blocked patchwork cardigan. That this seemingly unruly collage still lands as clothes with everyday reality owes to the finish of each individual piece. Nike and Paraboot grounded the footwear, dropping an anchor of utility into the playful world-building.

A Runway Returns — and “by R”

The finale paired a cropped black velvet tailcoat with a snake-pattern corset and distressed jeans — formal and street, ornament and everyday, blended in a single styling: this season’s KHOKI in concentrate.

Guests including Keisuke Asano, UTA, Fuju Kamio, Taishi Suzuki, Daisuke Shiba of comedy duo Mogurider, and actress Tsubasa Honda attended in KHOKI. To mark the brand’s participation in “by R,” three limited items themed on chance flea-market encounters — an appliqué-detail shirt, a multi-print T-shirt, and a souvenir tote bag — are on sale through Rakuten Fashion.

Founded in Tokyo in 2019 and operating as an anonymous design team, KHOKI has collected the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2023, a semi-finalist spot for the LVMH Prize 2024, and a place among the 10 Asian Designers to Watch in 2025. This return to the runway proved that the brand’s founding idea — the thrill of the flea market — is not a passing concept but a sustainable method.

Junk arranged on a windowsill becomes treasure through an order known only to its maker; Tokyo fashion, right now, holds that magic firmly in hand.

Explore every look from the KHOKI Spring/Summer 2027 Collection in the gallery below.

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