Kiko Kostadinov Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear: “Extroflexion” and a New Exploration of Structure and Material
On June 27, Kiko Kostadinov unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Collection during Paris Fashion Week Menswear.
This season further developed the minimalist geometric forms explored in the previous collection while delving deeper into the relationship between material and structure. Rather than constructing a narrative, the collection focused on revealing the inherent qualities of garments themselves, refining the label’s distinctive design language through an uncompromising exploration of form and materiality.
Instead of relying on surface embellishment to capture attention, the collection emphasized how cut, pattern, and material could generate volume and movement. This philosophy became the defining thread running throughout the entire presentation.
Setting the tone for the collection was a 1973 quote by Italian artist Agostino Bonalumi: “It is not so much an attempt to impose an image on the material, as to extract the image from the material itself.” Displayed at the beginning of the show, the statement underscored the creative vision behind the season.
“Extroflexion”: Drawing Inspiration from Sculptural Painting
A central reference for the collection was Bonalumi’s monochromatic sculptural paintings.
His concept of “Extroflexion”—creating dimensionality by inserting structural elements beneath the surface of the canvas—became a key point of departure. Rather than decorating the surface, Bonalumi’s work generated light, shadow, and form from within. That same philosophy informed the construction of the garments.
Topstitching and trims were kept to a minimum, visible zippers were eliminated, and prints were entirely absent. Fastenings were either concealed beneath plackets or integrated directly into the fabric, allowing the garments’ internal structure to become the defining visual element.
Tailoring That Balances Structure and Softness
The collection unfolded through a restrained palette of light grey, charcoal, navy, and blue. While visually understated, the garments conveyed remarkable depth through their materiality and sculptural construction.
Blazers, jackets, and trousers incorporated internal bonded structures that created subtle undulating forms across the fabric’s surface. The same approach appeared in raw-edged patchwork T-shirts, where softness and architectural precision existed in balance.
Made-in-Japan tailoring featured dense stitching on silk-wool fabrics, producing deep seam-like indentations. Polyurethane-coated denim jackets and shorts paid tribute to Bonalumi’s signature vinyl-treated canvases.
Silhouettes also evolved this season, becoming slimmer and more closely fitted to the body. In contrast, long tunics crafted from draped jersey and silky nubuck, oversized funnel-neck shirts, and lightweight knitwear introduced fluidity, bringing softness to the collection’s sculptural framework.
Geometric Motifs Unite the Collection
A recurring rhombus motif appeared throughout the collection, serving as one of its defining visual signatures.
The geometric shape emerged across neck guards, cropped blousons, slim-cut coats, elongated notch lapels, and the radiating hems of tailored trousers, quietly connecting the collection through a consistent structural vocabulary.
The show’s environment further reinforced this dialogue. The venue was illuminated by “Saori” lamps designed by Japanese designer Kazuhide Takahama, whose soft interplay of light and shadow accentuated the garments’ sculptural qualities, transforming the runway into an immersive installation.
Structural Expression Extends to Accessories and Footwear
The collection’s architectural language continued through its accessories.
Highlights included rectangular crossbody bags crafted from single folded pieces of leather, rhombus-shaped brooches and earrings, and belts finished with burnished metal buckles.
A new eyewear collaboration with Oakley introduced streamlined interpretations of the Terraforma silhouette alongside visor-like concept pieces handcrafted at the brand’s California headquarters, merging futuristic design with Kiko Kostadinov’s structural aesthetic.
Footwear expanded upon familiar signatures with updated Sargo lace-up loafers and refined mid-cut leather boots. The season also marked the return of the brand’s collaboration with Crocs, introducing a lightweight model featuring an integrated heel-tab sole and mixed leather-and-mesh uppers.
Explore every look from the Kiko Kostadinov Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Collection in the gallery below.
Copyright © 2026 Oui Speak Fashion. All rights reserved.
The post Kiko Kostadinov Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear: “Extroflexion” and a New Exploration of Structure and Material appeared first on Oui Speak Fashion (OSF)®.
