Van Cleef & Arpels Introduces Pink Enamel to Alhambra for the First Time With Five New Creations

Van Cleef & Arpels has unveiled five new Alhambra creations featuring enamel for the first time in the collection’s history.

Distinguished by its vivid pink color and translucent appearance, the enamel is the result of several years of research and development within the Maison’s workshops. Since its debut in 1968, the emblem of luck has continued to evolve through new materials, colors and functions. This latest chapter brings an entirely new expression to its familiar silhouette.

Summary

A Story of Luck That Began in 1968

Inspired by the shape of a four-leaf clover, the Alhambra motif was introduced in 1968.

The first creation was a long necklace composed of 20 textured yellow gold motifs, each framed by a double row of golden beads. With its harmonious form, supple construction and versatility for everyday wear, the design quickly gained popularity and grew into one of the Maison’s most recognizable collections.

At its heart is the idea of luck, a value that Van Cleef & Arpels has cherished since its founding. Jacques Arpels, the nephew of founder Estelle Arpels, was known for saying, “To be lucky, you have to believe in luck.”

Over the decades, Alhambra has continued to evolve through an extensive range of materials, including onyx, carnelian, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, guilloché gold and Sèvres porcelain. While preserving the integrity of its signature silhouette, the collection has repeatedly renewed itself by exploring the creative possibilities of color, texture and craftsmanship.

Five Creations in Vivid Pink Enamel

The new set comprises five pieces: the Vintage Alhambra pendant, Vintage Alhambra bracelet with five motifs, Vintage Alhambra necklace with 10 motifs, Vintage Alhambra long necklace with 20 motifs and Magic Alhambra earrings with two motifs.

The long necklace, necklace, pendant and bracelet combine yellow gold with pink enamel. The earrings pair the same pink enamel with guilloché yellow gold.

Its most distinctive qualities are its deep, vivid color and light-catching translucency. Microscopic bubble-like inclusions within the enamel lend each motif depth and an individual character.

Rather than reshaping the iconic silhouette itself, the material research renews the impression of a familiar motif — an approach that embodies the ongoing evolution of Alhambra across more than half a century.

A Signature Pink Born From Years of Research

This shade was specially developed to bring the Creative Studio’s vision to life.

Its color was achieved through a technique inspired by the “gold ruby” process established in the 17th century. Instead of relying on pigments, the process generates color through microscopic gold particles contained within the material.

Achieving the desired shade requires precise control over the size, shape and concentration of the particles. Van Cleef & Arpels spent several years researching and refining the process before establishing a method suitable for the Alhambra motif.

The pink enamel is framed by the double row of golden beads that has become one of the collection’s defining signatures. The interplay between the gold and translucent enamel creates shifting reflections as the pieces respond to light.

Where Enamel and Jewelry Savoir-Faire Meet

Van Cleef & Arpels currently works with more than 15 enamel techniques, including miniature painting, grisaille enamel, plique-à-jour enamel and enamel decals.

Beyond preserving traditional methods, the Maison has also developed new techniques such as “façonné enamel,” which creates three-dimensional form and transparency. It further supports the transmission of these rare skills through its own three-year enamel school, training the next generation of artisans.

Crafting the new pieces demands the high precision required to set curved enamel motifs perfectly into their gold bases. The prongs securing each motif are delicately folded to remain discreet, and the reverse is finished as a rounded, dome-like surface for a softer feel against the skin or clothing.

The chains connecting the motifs are faceted to enhance their luster, and the clasps are finished with the Maison’s monogram. Each completed creation undergoes an individual inspection to ensure it meets Van Cleef & Arpels’ quality standards.

“A New Chapter in the History of Alhambra”

Catherine Rénier, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, commented on the new creations:

“Through these Alhambra creations featuring enamel, Van Cleef & Arpels is opening a new chapter in the history of its iconic collection and symbol of luck. Thanks to the expertise and innovative capabilities of the Maison’s workshops, enamel brings its own distinctive aesthetic and color to the Alhambra universe, which has continued to evolve over several decades. This traditional jewelry material was patiently refined to enhance the beauty of the creations, resulting in effects of color, light and transparency. I am delighted to present it to you today.”

Van Cleef & Arpels has incorporated enamel into objects, jewelry and watches since the Maison was founded in 1906. Now, that historic savoir-faire meets Alhambra for the first time.

An enduring symbol shaped by continually evolving craftsmanship, the new pink enamel brings a fresh, contemporary radiance to the timeless Alhambra collection.

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